This week, we're in Cornwall on holiday. Each time we come down here, I set a target of things to see - we've seen many of the ancient prehistoric monuments, and a large percentage of the old Cornish crosses and Holy Wells that cover the county from Launceston to Land's End. In the pursuit of these last targets, I've visited many of the small parish churches, but never before have I taken particular notice of any carvings in the churches.
And so, on the first day of our holiday, I started to revisit some of the churches that I know, this time in a slightly more organised manner. Most of the Cornish churches are built of granite, which does not carve that easily. Luckily, I uncovered several wooden Green Man figures, mainly as roof bosses. This first batch of visit reports (and a negative report is as useful as a positive one for those who may wish to follow my steps) concerns churches on the West Penwith peninsular. Warning - this could end up being a long post!
Gulval, St Gluvias
On all previous attempts, I have been unable to gain access here, as it is usually locked apart from a brief opening on Saturday mornings, and the usual Sunday Services. As we'd been early leaving London, I'd made a special effort to get here for the Saturday opening, and was well rewarded. The vicar was in residence and I explained my self-imposed task. Although he couldn't help me directly, he wished me well and left me to look around. I checked the roof bosses and spotted a gilded face, with what looked like a moustache of leaves. I'm not fully convinced as yet, but will count this as my first hit of the week.
On perambulating the church, I spotted an unusual chair in the north aisle. I asked the vicar, who knew nothing about it, and also checked the church guidebook, which did not mention it at all. The chair was crudely carved, the back included a standing figure wearing what looked like fur shorts, and carrying a club. Could this be a faun? There was another figure cowering under a tree. The top of the chair back showed a possible green man on one side, and a copy of the figure on the seat - what looked like a bearded 'merman', but with a foliate tail. What is the story behind this strange chair?
Ludgvan, St Ludgvan & St Paul
I was surprised to find this church open, as it has been locked on previous visits unless someone was in attendance, cleaning or suchlike. This time I had the place to myself. I quickly identified two roof bosses, one a classic Green Man, the other a face (female?) within a foliate frame. There are also corbelled heads on the tower, but these are too worn to make out any distinct details.
Madron, St Maddern
On arrival here on Sunday morning, the vicar (the same one at Gulval previously) was just locking up as he had another service to attend elsewhere. He suggested I return later in the day after the later service, and I'm glad I made the effort to get back here.
Madron church contains over 200 roof bosses, and a great many of them appear to be copies of, or similar to the foliate framed head that I saw in Ludgvan.
However, the main prize was to found in the choir, where two fine poppy head bench ends were found, one male and one female, both of the Green Man type.
Morvah, St Brigit of Sweden
This church is apparently the only one in Britain dedicated to Brigit of Sweden. A service was being prepared, but I could easily see that there was very little decoration in the church, and no chance at all of finding my target here.
Pendeen, St John
This church was locked during my visit, though I have gained access on previous visits.
St Just, St Just
This church has always been open whenever I've visited, but has no Green man symbology that I can find.
Sancreed, St Credus
This church was locked during my visit, and has always been locked on previous visits. I suspect the church is only opened for the early morning Sunday service.
I hope to get around the majority of the Penwith churches later in the week.
