Sunday, May 24, 2009

Hunting the Green Man, Essex part 3

A beautiful Bank Holiday weekend is the perfect time to go for a drive in the sun. However, a Sunday is probably the worst day to go on the hunt for the Green Man.  Many churches are either in use, or locked tight. I make it a rule never to enter a church if a Service is in progress, out of respect. So it was that I was restricted to church exteriors for this trip, which provided a hit on only one church out of eight visited today.
So which was the lucky winner? Let's get that out of the way first. 
Thaxted, St John the Baptist
IMG_6480   IMG_6474
This church is quite spectacular externally, and is known as the 'Cathedral of Essex'. Every nook and cranny is seemingly filled with carvings of heads, faces, animals and various mythical beasts. There were far too many to count, each pinnacle having at least four faces.
IMG_6478   IMG_6479
Our man was on the west side of the South Porch and was of what I consider to be the 'classical' style, whilst on the north side I spotted at least two club-wielding Wild Woses, one taking pride of place on a pinnacle the North Transept.
IMG_6477  
IMG_6481   IMG_6482
This is a church I shall definitely have to return to in future. Who knows what delights await us inside? Entry to the church is unusually via the North porch, using a 'door within a door'.
Whilst in Thaxted, it would be boorish not to mention some of the other historical delights of the place, which include a Guildhall dating from 1390 (earlier than the church itself), and next to it a cottage where Dick Turpin was reputed to have lived.
IMG_6484   IMG_6485
Thaxted was also home to Gustav Holst, composer of the Planets Suite, and hosts a working windmill. the Thaxted Morrismen are supposedly one of the oldest sides in the country, and feature on the town signs at the North and South approaches to the town. The side were not in evidence during our visit, though there is a Fayre tomorrow (Bank Holiday Monday) where they will be dancing out.
Ok, so Thaxted was an interesting stop and worth a visit all by itself, but where else did we go today? A brief list should suffice for our purposes as none of the other churches visited showed any external evidence of the Green Man, which is our main focus here.
Little Chesterford, St Mary the Virgin - there was a sign in the porch listing keyholders, but it was quite an early start for us, far too early to wake a keyholder!
IMG_6453
Littlebury, Holy Trinity - this church had some ornate corbel heads on the East end of the church, but they almost looked too unworn to be of any age. The church was locked.
IMG_6462
IMG_6460   IMG_6459
Radwinter, St Mary - the Service was just about to commence - bells were calling the parishioners in as I arrived, though I suspect many of them were attending the Boot Fair in nearby fields across the road. The church has an interesting 2 storey South porch, so may be worth a revisit if in the area.
IMG_6465   IMG_6466
Great Sampford, St Michael - a notice stated that the church is 'normally open. Summer 10-4, Winter 10-3'. It was 8:30 in the morning when we got here...
IMG_6472
Little Bardfield, St Katharine - a delightful little church, set back from the road, and which was open. No evidence of the Green Man, internally or externally. There was a guide book for sale at £6.50, but a scan through the demo copy suggested this was more about the history of the parish and its people rather than the structure of the church.
IMG_6490
Great Bardfield, St Mary the Virgin - locked tight, but the presence of Clerestory windows suggests that any possible Green Man roof bosses inside would be impossibly high and difficult to see.
IMG_6495
Finchingfield, St John the Baptist - A Christening appeared to be in progress so I could not gain entry to the church itself. Several heads on the window stops appeared to be modern, one sporting what appeared to be aviator goggles! There was an older mouth-puller figure on the northwest side of the tower though (difficult to photograph against the sun).
IMG_6498
IMG_6499  IMG_6504
The village itself is beautiful, but was busy with the hum of motorbike engines around the village pond. It seems to be one of those places they all converge on when the weather is as pleasant as it was today.
IMG_6507
Looking at the map after the journey, it never fails to amaze me just how many churches there are still left to visit in this area.
See this trip on TravelSkoot.

Sunday, May 03, 2009

Hunting the Green Man - West Penwith pt 1

This week, we're in Cornwall on holiday. Each time we come down here, I set a target of things to see  - we've seen many of the ancient prehistoric monuments, and a large percentage of the old Cornish crosses and Holy Wells that cover the county from Launceston to Land's End. In the pursuit of these last targets, I've visited many of the small parish churches, but never before have I taken particular notice of any carvings in the churches.

And so, on the first day of our holiday, I started to revisit some of the churches that I know, this time in a slightly more organised manner. Most of the Cornish churches are built of granite, which does not carve that easily. Luckily, I uncovered several wooden Green Man figures, mainly as roof bosses. This first batch of visit reports (and a negative report is as useful as a positive one for those who may wish to follow my steps) concerns churches on the West Penwith peninsular. Warning - this could end up being a long post!

Gulval, St Gluvias

On all previous attempts, I have been unable to gain access here, as it is usually locked apart from a brief opening on Saturday mornings, and the usual Sunday Services. As we'd been early leaving London, I'd made a special effort to get here for the Saturday opening, and was well rewarded. The vicar was in residence and I explained my self-imposed task. Although he couldn't help me directly, he wished me well and left me to look around. I checked the roof bosses and spotted a gilded face, with what looked like a moustache of leaves. I'm not fully convinced as yet, but will count this as my first hit of the week.

Gulval GM

On perambulating the church, I spotted an unusual chair in the north aisle. I asked the vicar, who knew nothing about it, and also checked the church guidebook, which did not mention it at all. The chair was crudely carved, the back included a standing figure wearing what looked like fur shorts, and carrying a club. Could this be a faun? There was another figure cowering under a tree. The top of the chair back showed a possible green man on one side, and a copy of the figure on the seat - what looked like a bearded 'merman', but with a foliate tail. What is the story behind this strange chair?

IMG_6127   IMG_6126

Ludgvan, St Ludgvan & St Paul

Ludgvan Church

I was surprised to find this church open, as it has been locked on previous visits unless someone was in attendance, cleaning or suchlike. This time I had the place to myself. I quickly identified two roof bosses, one a classic Green Man, the other a face (female?) within a foliate frame. There are also corbelled heads on the tower, but these are too worn to make out any distinct details.

Ludgvan GM1   Ludgvan GM2

Madron, St Maddern

Madron Church

On arrival here on Sunday morning, the vicar (the same one at Gulval previously) was just locking up as he had another service to attend elsewhere. He suggested I return later in the day after the later service, and I'm glad I made the effort to get back here.

Madron church contains over 200 roof bosses, and a great many of them appear to be copies of, or similar to the foliate framed head that I saw in Ludgvan.

Madron GM1  Madron GM2 

However, the main prize was to found in the choir, where two fine poppy head bench ends were found, one male and one female, both of the Green Man type.

Madron GM1 PH   Madron GM2 PH

Morvah, St Brigit of Sweden

Morvah St Brigit

This church is apparently the only one in Britain dedicated to Brigit of Sweden. A service was being prepared, but I could easily see that there was very little decoration in the church, and no chance at all of finding my target here.

Pendeen, St John

Pendeen St John Baptist

This church was locked during my visit, though I have gained access on previous visits.

St Just, St Just

St Just

This church has always been open whenever I've visited, but has no Green man symbology that I can find.

Sancreed, St Credus

Sancreed Church

This church was locked during my visit, and has always been locked on previous visits. I suspect the church is only opened for the early morning Sunday service.

I hope to get around the majority of the Penwith churches later in the week.